تأثیر منسوجات ایران دوران آل بویه و سلجوقی بر اسپانیای اسلامی (مطالعه موردی: منسوجات دوران مرابطون و موحدون) (مقاله علمی وزارت علوم)
درجه علمی: نشریه علمی (وزارت علوم)
آرشیو
چکیده
فتوحات مسلمانان در دوره اموی، زمینه ساز ورود اسلام به اسپانیا و دگرگونی فرهنگ و هنر آندلس، به ویژه منسوجات این دوران، از منظر طراحی نقوش بود. برخی محققان، منسوجات اسپانیای اسلامی را تداوم سنت طراحی منسوجات ایران ساسانی می دانند؛ اما پژوهش حاضر بر بنیاد این فرضیه شکل گرفته است که در منسوجات اندلس، به ویژه در دوران حکمرانی مرابطون و موحدون، شواهدی از نوآوری های منسوجات دوران هم عصر آنها، حکومت های آل بویه و سلجوقی که خود تداوم سنت ساسانی محسوب می شوند، قابل مشاهده است. بنابراین، هدف پژوهش حاضر، کشف دلایل و میزان این تأثیرپذیری از طریق بررسی مستندات تاریخی، مقایسه نقوش و ترکیب بندی شواهد منسوجات دو تمدن به منظور بررسی فرضیه مزبور است. نتایج پژوهش، نشانگر نقش تجارت در این زمینه و تأثیرپذیری منسوجات مرابطون از نقش مایه های انسانی، حیوانی، پرندگان و نمادهای عقاب دو سر، درخت زندگی و ترکیب بندی مدالیون های حاشیه دار منسوجات آل بویه است. استفاده از نقوش هندسی، ستاره هشت پر، لوزی و چلیپا نیز می تواند نشانگر تأثیرپذیری محدود موحدون از منسوجات سلجوقی باشد. کاهش تأثیر در دوره موحدون را باید نتیجه توجه حاکمان مُوحِد به ساده زیستی، طرد نقوش جانداران، تمایل به نقوش هندسی تزیینات معماری، کاهش واردات ناشی از پیشرفت صنعت نساجی اندلس و تبدیل آن به قطب نساجی اروپا دانست.The impact of Persian textiles of Buyid and Seljuk Eras on Islamic Spain textiles (Case Study: Almoravids & Almoheds Periods)
Al-Andalus also known as Muslim Spain or Islamic Iberia, generally describes parts of the Iberian Peninsula governed by Muslims at times between 711 and 1492. As a political domain, it was successively constituted as province of the Umayyad Caliphate, Umayyad Emirate and Caliphate of Córdoba, Taifa kingdoms, Almoravids, Almohads and Marinids. These kingdoms led to a rise in cultural, industrial, artistic progress and they became the most important Europe scientific center during Middle-Ages. Many believe that fashion grew in Islamic Spain Courts by the genius of one man, Ziryab, who revolutionized the court at Córdoba and made it the stylistic capital of its time. After Umayyad Caliphate, the independent Caliphate of Córdoba focused on textile manufacturing as an important things for court precious property. One of the most important progress was trading stuff and textile manufacturing and sericulture makes Al-Andulus the pioneer of European silk textiles. Silk industry flourished during Almoravids and Almohads dynasties. Most researchers believe that Al-Andulus textiles are mostly seen as continuity of Eastern textile design tradition especially Iran during Sassanid Period. It means that all similar motifs and compositions are derived from these clothes and evolved in various Islamic territories separately. But this research presumes that some of Al-Andalus textile motifs and patterns of Almoravids and Almohads dynasties have signs of some contemporary Iranian textile design innovations especially Buyid and Seljuk Textiles, both of which are the continuity of Sassanid textile design tradition. Therefore, this research tries to show these similarities through historical documents, comparative analysis of remained textiles of these dynasties from design point of view, to investigate the reasoning behind these resemblance and show the similar aspects of these textiles. Previous researches and historical documents provided by such historians as al-Maqqari (1578–1632) and textile remains in various Museums especially Cleveland Art Museum offered precious information for measuring the suggested theory and improving it. Based on the obtained results, trading over Mediterranean Sea between Iran and Islamic Spain specially during Almoravids dynasty, importing silk clothes from Persian territories for courtiers usage and imitating them in local workshops with similar names as Dibaj, Isfahani, Jorjani, etc., shows the cultural dominance of Persian textile design culture in Islamic Spain manufacturing places and their literature. From design viewpoint, depicting human figure, animals and birds and Persian symbols such as Tree of Life, two headed eagle, man catching two animals in repetitive roundels named Medallion, equal attention to positive and negative complement spaces in design of Buyid Textiles can be seen in Almoravids textiles and we can see representation of Seljuk textiles as geometrical patterns, eight-pointed stars, lozenge and crosses in the late Almohed Dynasty textiles. Probably, the less impact of Persian textiles during Almohed dynesty can be seen as the result of religious beliefs of Almohed governors in relationship between virtue and simplicity in life, and reduced textile importations can be attributed to Spain progress in sericulture and silk weaving which made Spain as the Europe's textile manufacturing Pole.
تبلیغات
